A mouse is just two buttons, and a two-dimensional motion tracking system, right? Oh, and a scroll wheel. And a third button. And…now you’re realizing that mice can be pretty complicated. [DIY Yarik] proves that in spades with his impressive—and complex—mouse build. The only thing is, you might argue it isn’t really a mouse.

The inspiration for the mouse was simple. [Yarik] wanted something that was comfortable to use. He also wanted a mouse that wouldn’t break so often—apparently, he’s had a lot of reliability issues with mice in recent years. Thus, he went with a custom 3D-printed design with a wrist rest at the base. This allows his hand to naturally rest in a position where he can access multiple buttons and a central thumbstick for pointing. In fact, there’s a secondary scroll control and a rotary dial as well. It’s a pretty juicy control surface.

The use of a thumbstick is controversial—some might exclaim “this is not a mouse!” To them, I say, “Fine, call it a pointing device.” It’s still cool, and it look like a comfortable way to interface with a computer.

We’ve seen some other neat custom mice over the years, too, like this hilarious force-feedback mouse. Video after the break.

youtube.com/embed/GpYnQJRw7pw?…

hackaday.com/2024/11/21/custom…

With few exceptions, electronic event badges are often all but forgotten as soon as the attendee gets back home. They’re a fun novelty for the two or three days they’re expected to be worn, but after that, they end up getting tossed in a drawer (or worse.) As you might imagine, this can be a somewhat depressing thought thought for the folks who design and build these badges.

But thanks to a new firmware released by the FREE-WILi project, at least one badge is going to get a shot at having a second life. When loaded onto the RP2350-powered DEF CON 32 badge, the device is turned into a handy hardware hacking multi-tool. By navigating through a graphical interface, users will be able to control the badge’s GPIO pins, communicate over I2C, receive and transmit via infrared, and more. We’re particularly interested in the project’s claims that the combination of their firmware and the DC32 badge create an ideal platform for testing and debugging Simple Add-Ons (SAOs).

Don’t know what the FREE-WILi project is? Neither did we until today, which is actually kind of surprising now that we’re getting a good look at it. Basically, it’s a handheld gadget with a dozen programmable GPIO pins and a pair of CC1101 sub-GHz radios that’s designed to talk to…whatever you could possibly want to interface with.

It’s a bit like an even more capable Bus Pirate 5, which considering how many tricks that particular device can pull off, is saying something. As an added bonus, apparently you can even wear the FREE-WILi on your wrist for mobile hardware hacking action!

Anyway, while the hardware in the FREE-WILi is clearly more capable than what’s under the hood of the DC32 badge, there’s enough commonality between them that the developers were able to port a few of the key features over. It’s a clever idea — there’s something like 30,000 of these badges out there in the hands of nerds all over the world, and by installing this firmware, they’ll get a taste of what the project is capable of and potentially spring for the full kit.

If you give your DC32 badge the FREE-WILi treatment, be sure to let us know in the comments.

hackaday.com/2024/11/21/free-w…

Your project needs a cable, and since USB-C cables are omnipresent now, it’s only natural to want to reuse them for your evil schemes. Ever seen USB 3.0 cables used for PCIe link carrying duty? It’s because USB 3.0 cables are built to a reasonably high standard, both sockets and cables are easy to find, and they’re cheap. Well, USB-C cables beat USB 3.0 cables by all possible metrics.

Let’s go through USB-C cable reuse in great detail, and see just what exactly you get when you buy either a gas station C-C USB 2.0 cable, or, the fanciest all-features-supported 240 W Thunderbolt cable that money can buy. Looking for a cable to cut, or something to pass a seriously high-speed link? You’re reading the right article.

The Omnipresent Cables

USB-A to USB-C cables are the least interesting. They’re equivalent to a microUSB to USB-A cable, except there’s a resistor on the USB-C plug, connected from VBUS to one of the CC pins. That’s it. The cable contains four conductors, there’s really not much new. Save these cables for all the devices still built without the 5.1 kΩ resistors.

Now, a USB-C to USB-C cable – let’s say, 60 W max, the default USB-C cable capability. If your cable says anything less than 60 W, say, “2 A” or “15 W”, that’s a lie – it can handle 60 W no problem, all USB-C to C cables can do 60 W. This cable is also cool – for one, it has five conductors; GND, VBUS, D+, D-, and CC. Two of them (GND and VBUS) are guaranteed to be thick enough to carry 3 A without much voltage drop if any, too!

five conductors, two of them thicker – yep, you know where to find a replacement!
What does this mean? If you need a five-wire cable to fix your headphones, and you want something solid, a USB-C cable is probably your best bet ever – and you have a ton of choice here. You will inevitably end up with a heap of broken USB-C cables, which means you’ll never be short of 5-conductor cables – the kind of cable that has always been kind of a rarity, unless you’re pilfering headphone cables for your projects.

What about 100 W to 240 W cables? There’s good news and bad news. Good news is, the cable is likely to contain six wires. One extra wire is for VCONN – power for the emarker chip inside the cable plug, a memory chip you can read over the CC line, letting the PSU know whether the cable is indeed capable of carrying over 5 A – required for the 61 W to 240 W range.

Bad news is – there could still be five wires, if the cable is built using the alternative scheme with two emarkers, one per plug. The VCONN wire won’t be present then, and there’s no way to know until you cut the wire apart, so if you’re looking for a six-wire cable, you might have to try a few different cables. Also, the VCONN wire doesn’t connect the two plugs together – it’s isolated at one end, so don’t expect it to help if you use USB-C sockets instead of cutting the cable.

Now, you don’t always want to cut the cable – you can use USB-C sockets and apply your custom five-wire scheme to them. An idea I hear often is using USB-C cables for 3D printer hotends. It makes sense – such cables can handle 60 W of power without breaking a sweat, and you could likely do a fair bit more. Put extruder power onto the VBUS and GND pins, and use the three wires left for a thermistor and a limit switch. But the cable and socket mechanicals might be a dealbreaker. If your extruder-powering cable vibrates out of the socket, you might end up with a high-resistance-contact high-current connection on your hands – a recipe for melted plastic and possibly flames. Try it at your own risk!

You also won’t be able to make such cable reuse standard-compliant, and such port won’t be safe for any USB-C devices someone might plug into it, so label it accordingly, please.

What About Voltages?

What about putting arbitrary voltages onto VBUS, without PD negotiation? Again, it won’t be standards-compliant unless you really put some effort in – mark your jury-rigged sockets and cables accordingly, or they will eat your devices for breakfast. Also, SPR (100 W) cables contain 30 V 10 nF capacitors at each plug end, and EPR cables contain 63 V ones – reach these limits at your own risk, those capacitors are known to fail short-circuit.

Another factor is if you decide to go for the 48 V / 5 A target while bypassing the USB-C standard, because 48 V support is not as simple as putting 48 V on VBUS. If you just put 48 V on the VBUS pins, you’ll really want to figure out spark management, so that suddenly unplugging the cable won’t burn either the plug or the socket or both – PD has ways to deal with that, but they do require you to actually implement PD, specifically, EPR, which brings a heap of safety guarantees due to exceeding the 20 V limit.

That’s about it when it comes to reusing the cheapest kinds of USB-C cables – you get an extra wire compared to previous USB standards, it can handle a fair bit more power, and you can even use USB-C sockets. However, it will kill your devices if you’re not careful, and you need to take extra care if you go over 25 V or so. What about if you want to get more wires and pull some differential pairs instead?

Up The Speed

Fully-featured USB-C cables and sockets are genuinely wonderful for pulling high-speed communications over them. They are built to a solid standard, with proper impedance controls, shielding, and a modern-day understanding of digital transmission standards. Now, what exactly do you get from a fully-featured USB-C cable?
HDMI over USB C – as in, passing HDMI signals through USB-C cables. I guess, that’s one way to circumvent connector royalties!
Short answer is, you get six differential pairs, and one single-ended wire (CC), in addition to VBUS and GND. You might want to keep GND at a stable level here, and perhaps don’t mess too much with VBUS. There’s a ton you can do with these six diffpairs – two USB3 ports, or a PCIe x2 link, or two SATA, or HDMI, or CSI/DSI. You can even do Ethernet if you really want to – just don’t expect galvanic isolation to work.

There are nuances, of course! Ever see a teardown or an X-ray of a fancy fully-featured cable? There’s typically all sorts of ICs inside each plug. The first one is the emarker chip, and it’s a fun one to keep in mind. For a start, it will result in some ESD diodes between GND and CC – watch out, don’t bring CC below 0 V or above 5 V.

A second kind of IC is the signal re-driver, used in active cables. You have to provide power to these redrivers through either VBUS or VCONN, just like emarkers. If you don’t do it, your high-speed lines might just be unresponsive to any high-speed signal you apply to the pins.

What about rotation? That’s a tough one – unless your signal is very much like USB3/DisplayPort/Thunderbolt, you might not be able to find a suitable mux chip to rotate your signals. As such, you will likely want to stick to a single rotation and wire your signals directly. Then, if you plug in the cable in an unexpected way, it won’t work, so you should probably consider using the CC pin or the two SBU pins for lighting up LEDs. showing you whether you’re good, or whether you should unplug the cable, rotate it, and plug it back in, like in the good old days.

There’s one last thing you might care about. USB-C cables connect TX on one end to RX on another end, and vice-versa. This is nice for PCIe purposes, since it, too, flips pair naming at the connector. For any other signal, you’ll want to keep it in mind – RX1 won’t go to RX1 on the other end, it will go to TX1, and you’ll have to re-layout accordingly. Unfortunately, I’m not intimately familar with active cable inner workings – so, it’s hard for me to tell whether any active cable redriver chips would reject certain sorts of signaling, perhaps, signals that don’t match USB3, DisplayPort or Thunderbolt signaling types.

And One Last Hack

These are the basics of what you should know before you try and reuse a USB-C cable, no matter its complexity. That said, here’s an extra hack before we conclude!

Only one USB2 pair is actually connected at the USB-C cable end – the pair on the same side as the CC pin. My guess is, this was initially done to avoid stubs and cable plug PCB routing complications, as well as to accomodate standards like VirtualLink. Regretfully, we never got VirtualLink cables, which would allow us to use seven differential pairs at a time, but there is another hack we still get out of this!

What does this mean for you? If you use two USB2-grade 2:1 muxes, you can get two extra differential signals out of a fully-compliant USB socket, and they won’t even interfere with standard-compliant cables. Use this for SWD, JTAG, or whatever else, with your signals broken out through a custom plug – just make sure you dutifully switch the muxes depending on cable orientation, then you can keep your USB2 cake and eat it, too.

hackaday.com/2024/11/21/usb-c-…

Il Centro nazionale giapponese per gli affari dei consumatori ha raccomandato la pianificazione dell’eredità digitale per rendere più semplice per i propri cari la gestione degli account e degli abbonamenti dei cittadini dopo la loro morte. Questa iniziativa è nata a causa di numerosi casi in cui i parenti hanno incontrato difficoltà nel cancellare gli abbonamenti a causa della mancanza di accesso ai conti del defunto.

Il Centro suggerisce quattro passaggi per ridurre al minimo tali difficoltà:

1. nominare una persona di fiducia per la gestione dei dati digitali (nei servizi che supportano questo)
2. assicurati che i tuoi cari abbiano accesso ai tuoi dispositivi annotando login, password e codici PIN chiave;
3. creare una lista con l’intero elenco degli abbonamenti completati;
4. inserire tutte le informazioni di cui sopra nel testamento.

Con la crescente popolarità degli smartphone e dei servizi online, la necessità di tale pianificazione diventa sempre più urgente. I parenti affrontano problemi nel chiudere conti o annullare abbonamenti, il che porta a spese indesiderate.

Una soluzione potrebbe essere rappresentata da applicazioni che funzionano in modalità “interruttore a uomo morto”. Questi servizi inviano dati agli individui selezionati se l’utente non ha effettuato l’accesso all’account per un lungo periodo.

Inoltre, Meta offre la possibilità di nominare un cosiddetto “custode” (Legacy Contact) – l’erede dei poteri dell’utente, che sarà in grado di gestire l’account dopo la conferma ufficiale della morte del proprietario. Tali funzioni facilitano notevolmente molti processi per i parenti che stanno già vivendo un forte stress. Gli esperti sottolineano che disporre di dati preparati in anticipo aiuta a evitare difficoltà finanziarie ed emotive.

L’idea della pianificazione digitale non solo aiuta a organizzare la propria eredità, ma apre anche nuove opportunità per gli imprenditori che creano tali servizi. Prima o poi, la maggior parte dei siti e dei servizi sarà in grado di fornire tale funzionalità, e l’unica domanda che resta è se il nostro patrimonio digitale si trasformerà in un archivio ordinato o rimarrà un’eco caotica del passato che giace da qualche parte su Internet.

L'articolo Eredità digitale: chi gestirà i tuoi abbonamenti Netflix quando sarai nell’aldilà? proviene da il blog della sicurezza informatica.

A questo punto amici della Rogue Records vi attendiamo al varco.

Eh sì perché continuare a dare luce a prodotti di così alto lignaggio senza sbagliare un colpo sembra impresa davvero titanica. Certo, conosciamo la vostra competenza e la vostra passione, ma perdio fatelo uscire un 7" un po' inferiore alla media.
iyezine.com/the-woggles-anyway…
@Musica Agorà

The Woggles - Anyway the Wind / Slippin'out 7"

The Woggles - Anyway the Wind / Slippin'out 7" - The Woggles - Anyway the Wind / Slippin'out 7" se tale occasione ci sarà non si tratta comunque di questa perché la recente infornata di singoli offertaci dall'etichetta di Tolosa è nuovamente di una q…

^{Il Santo (In Your Eyes ezine)}

Buongiorno a tutti. 😊
Da quando, anni fa, ho abbandonato Facebook (e tutti gli altri social classici e tossici) e sono approdato nel Fediverso, tante cose sono cambiate nel mio modo di percepire il mondo social e il web in generale.
Per prima cosa ho aperto un account su Mastodon, poi ho conosciuto Friendica, Peertube e Pixelfed, ma ho sempre scritto quasi esclusivamente su Mastodon, a parte i video pubblicati su Peertube.
Stamattina ho pensato che sarebbe carino iniziare delle interazioni anche qui e cominciare a pubblicare pure su Pixelfed.
Questo messaggio è il primo passo del mio buon proposito.
Voi come siete giunti sul Fediverso? Quali sono state le motivazioni che vi hanno spinto a cambiare?

In lak'ech. 🙏
Marco